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Post by SeaRat on Jan 9, 2013 14:49:11 GMT -8
Jaybird, 'sorry to hear that...I think someone pulled a switch. The Healthways Scubair-300 with that ring had the newer diaphragms as originally sold. I've bought two of them, so I don't quite know what to say about that.
John
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 10, 2013 14:53:49 GMT -8
AAAAARG! If I wasn't a great mechanic, I'd say that thing's a basket case, but since I am, it's going to be a real challenge...
Looks like it was only used once and put away without any rinse after use: everything is frozen in place. I don't usually like to use such harsh stuff on a regulator, but I think PB-Blaster (heavy duty penetrating fluid) is going to work. The cap/bonnet is really stuck, so I'll let that sit over night with the PB to work its way in. I was able to get the "sonic cylinder" cap off, again using PB, and locked down tight in a vice... Dang, if this was a car-part, I'd just take a torch to it, to expand the metal, but...
The quality is nowhere near as good as the second generation, 1962--, as those are one of the best looking, if not the best, regs I've ever seen...
More later, Jaybird
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 10, 2013 17:07:44 GMT -8
Got the bonnet off: used some neoprene to grip and protect it, and some HUGE locking pliers, locked it down and TWIST. Lots of torque required...
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 11, 2013 14:53:42 GMT -8
Here are side by side shots of the second and third generation Healthways Scubair-300s. Note that the third gen only has one LP port: it clearly has a location for it, as seen in first image. Enjoy, Jaybird
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Post by SeaRat on Jan 12, 2013 19:16:40 GMT -8
Jaybird, I'm glad you got it apart, and have given us the parts details in your photos. It looks like the third generation has a slightly different mechanism for sounding the audio alarm. I'm curious how it works when you do get it wet.
John
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 13, 2013 9:25:39 GMT -8
John, sorry, it is the same, the poppet(?) was stuck in there and I really didn't want to take it apart, so I thought I'd just leave it in there for the image. I think I may use it for a parts reg, after I try it of course! The Second gen has a spacer that really threw me off, that washer far left. I didn't see how it came out, and I messed up both of the small springs, crushed 'em, stupidly: GRRRR!
More later, gotta make breakfast! Jaybird
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 13, 2013 10:38:41 GMT -8
WHEW, I thought I had really messed up! I was able to figure out the length of the spring by counting the spaces on the mat I shot the picture on: 2.5". I need to find a spring, that's the right length, but they didn't have one at the local, walking distance, hardware store, they had one close, but not long enough... I'm guessing that the third gen is from around 1970, as that's when everyone made their upgrades, or for Healthways, cosmetic changes for the most part, although the exhaust-tee is more robust, the valve is still the same size.
I'll get some side-by-sides of the second stages torn down, with a Scuba Star (tilt-valve) for comparison next...
Jaybird
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Post by duckbill on Jan 13, 2013 14:46:35 GMT -8
For future reference, vinegar dissolves the old salts and verdegris. I think it's safe to say that's what most of us use for that. PB Blaster is great stuff for rust, but not so good on o-rings and maybe some plastics, and it's oily and hard to rinse.
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 13, 2013 15:56:49 GMT -8
DB, yeah, I'm hip, but I think by the time the vinegar worked its way in, it would have started attacking the the metal of the reg itself. I really thought about my using the PB, and where to apply it: that bonnet was frozen! I tried WD40 and that didn't do a dang thing. I fully intend to replace all the o-rings; the verdigris/salt crystals were pretty abrasive while unscrewing the parts.
It came with a pretty swell SPG, WD40 worked on getting the bezel off, but again, I had to use a crescent wrench that was one-foot long, at the base of the SPG, and 18-inch channel locks with .015 aluminum sheet stock wrapped around the bezel so as not to damage it. I knew that it was a bit crusty when I bid on it, but felt pretty PO'ed when I saw just how bad it was...
Jaybird
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 15, 2013 15:48:19 GMT -8
Healthways second stages, top to bottom: Scuba Star-title valve Scubair "300"-second generation Scubair "300"-third generation The first two use the metal snap-ring, whereas the later one used a plastic snap-ring. Jaybird
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Post by sitkadiver on Jan 15, 2013 15:56:35 GMT -8
Jaybird,
Have you come up with any new method for changing the exhaust valve in the metal-exhaust-tee regs? As much as I love the chrome for is it's look, I have to admit that the plastic exhaust tee is waaay better from a maintainance stand point.
Thanks for posting the comparison shots, I find those very interesting.
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 15, 2013 16:06:32 GMT -8
Again, Healthways cheaping-out, in my opinion: The sintered filters went from circlip/snap-ring, to a much cheaper um, star-clip... Jaybird
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 15, 2013 16:15:40 GMT -8
Dave, as an artist, I much prefer the chrome! I like the way it sends the exhaust back further too, yeah, it may be more restrictive, but if I want performance, I'll use my Dacor Olympic, or USD Calypso IV: man that is a short fat tee on that one! Oh, and glad you like'm--REALLY!
Jaybird
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 15, 2013 16:22:26 GMT -8
Oh, and the SPG! Jaybird
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 15, 2013 17:31:39 GMT -8
Sorry, I didn't mean my IV, I meant Calypso VI, had the really big exhaust-tee...
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