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Post by nikeajax on Sept 5, 2019 12:29:20 GMT -8
Phil, what if you made new and slightly longer levers?!?! I've seen them at... Perhaps you could silver solder something on? Just brainstorming... JB
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Post by SeaRat on Sept 5, 2019 13:34:31 GMT -8
Phil, what if you made new and slightly longer levers?!?! I've seen them at... Perhaps you could silver solder something on? Just brainstorming... JB The problem isn't the lever length on the R-1 through R-3 regulators, and changing that would require a re-design of the entire second stage unit, which was done for the R-4. The R-4 lever could easily be improved by eliminating that "U" shape on it, and allowing the lever to function the same way as the USD Mistral lever systems, with the long end of the primary lever pushing toward the fulcrum of the secondary lever, rather than having that "U" on the secondary lever move toward the fulcrum of the primary lever. I did that over 20 years ago by simply banging out the "U" and it worked better (but not optimally, as there were some "ripples" in the secondary lever). Now, the article is in: The Journal of Diving HistorySecond Quarter 2015, Volume 23, Number 83 "DACOR" is the title of the article. I'll have more a bit later today. Right now, I need to get ready to travel to Salem for the 55th reunion of my North Salem High School 1964 graduating class. John
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Post by vance on Sept 5, 2019 13:51:50 GMT -8
Yes, I saw in the reports that the R-2 had passed on a second evaluation, but the R-3 did not pass. You just reminded me that I have that article around somewhere on my computer. Guess I ought to re-read it before asking more questions!
I've seen lots of R-3s with the big hoses, but thought that was an add-on that frustrated divers stuck on their R-3s. I'm sure many an R-1.2.3 diver did that, but thanks for confirming the R-3/big hose combination was made available by Dacor halfway through.
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Post by vance on Sept 5, 2019 14:08:22 GMT -8
Phil, what if you made new and slightly longer levers?!?! I've seen them at... Perhaps you could silver solder something on? Just brainstorming... JB As I mentioned somewhere, part of the R-1,2,3 series problem seems to be with the actual lever contacts. The levers have built in bumps that are supposed to be the interface points, but usually it's the tips of the levers that actually contact the other lever or the diaphragm plate. On a few I've seen, at the spot where the tips touch the lever has dug in and made 3 little horizontal trenches where the lever will snag-jump-snag-jump-snag-jump. So, some bending is in order to get the little bumps to contact where they're supposed to, and some polishing needs doing to get a smooth slide. A bit of grease helps too. It's a bit tricky to maintain the lever height adjustment. I've been pretty successful at getting a smooth lever action. I'll post some pics when I get some. If I get some.
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Post by vance on Sept 6, 2019 7:46:53 GMT -8
I found the article, and it says that the hoses are in fact 1 1/4" and were introduced in 1961, making them correct for the later R-3. It also says that a few R-3s were made in shiny chrome rather than the usual brushed nickel. Interestingly, I saw one for sale on eBay recently.
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Post by vance on Sept 6, 2019 8:21:13 GMT -8
I tried an experiment with the later HP diaphragm adjuster in the R-2 to see if it would work to make IP adjustments. The hole in the center of the 2500 series diaphragms is smaller than the later models with the adjuster, so I drilled out a not so good one and installed the adjuster. It did work, even though the actuating pins are very different. I was concerned that the adjuster screw would be retracted too far into the "button" for the bigger pin to interface correctly, but it actually protruded slightly in this instance. The setup did work, but the adjuster screw is too high as is, and interferes with the LP seat lever. IMG_4778 by Vancetp, on Flickr The adjuster went back in my C-3 and I put the original back into the R-2. I might try to make an adjuster for an R-3 I have kicking around, do some fiddling with the levers, and come up with an air director just for fun. It might make a decent performing regulator!
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Post by vance on Sept 6, 2019 14:21:52 GMT -8
I think a simple threaded hole for setscrew and locknut would work fine on the original HP diaphragm hardware. I'll try it asap. The only problem might be height/interference with the LP seat lever, but the whole thing can be cut down enough if necessary.
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Post by vance on Sept 6, 2019 14:22:29 GMT -8
Why? Because it's there....
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Post by nikeajax on Sept 6, 2019 14:39:53 GMT -8
Phil, I was wondering if you'd end up doing that! I'm having some difficulty finding those parts for you, but I'll keep looking JB EDIT: I found em'!
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Post by vance on Sept 6, 2019 15:44:22 GMT -8
Cool. Check your email, JB.
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Post by SeaRat on Sept 6, 2019 18:11:33 GMT -8
Phil, That was an interesting post. I applaud your efforts with the Dacor R-3. I have been fascinated with this regulator series for a while, but they've been on the back burner too. I like looking at them again. Here I'm in the water with my Dacor R-2 (pool). The hose loop is a USD right hose, connecting to a Dacor R-4/Clipper mouthpiece, connecting to a SCBA hose that I bought off E-Bay (a Frankenstein combo). John diving Dacor R-3 by John Ratliff, on Flickr John
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Post by vance on Sept 7, 2019 8:10:18 GMT -8
Speaking of hoses, the 1 1/2" USD hoses will not normally fit the Dacor 1 1/4". I have had some success with adding a bike tire tube section over the mp ends, but that is often not enough.
I found that the reproduction neoprene Voit Trieste hoses Dan sells at VintageScubaSupply.com are very tight on the USD mouthpieces and will fit the Dacor great! They are a good price, too. A matching set is always nice!
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Post by vance on Sept 8, 2019 15:20:59 GMT -8
JB passed along some Dacor goodies to me today. I got a 2500 series HP diaphragm with hardware that I can experiment with. I want to make it adjustable w/o modding the rubber diaphragm. I'll post pics of the mod I have in mind which is described above.
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Post by vance on Sept 8, 2019 16:13:30 GMT -8
So here's the hardware with a threaded hole (8-32) and a setscrew all up in it. The setscrew I have here is too short. I'll install a longer one and try a couple locking schemes. A locknut should work, or a bit of blue loc-tite. The dimple in the setscrew got me to thinking about replacing that silly HW type pin with a straight piece of 1/16" hardened steel. The end would fit right up inside that relief. That would eliminate any kind of airflow blockage. But, I'm considering pin support and horror stories of pins bending and complete regulator failures at depth. Myth? The pin wouldn't be any longer than any other HP pin I've seen.
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Post by nikeajax on Sept 9, 2019 11:07:37 GMT -8
Phil, it seems like it would be too short for it to bend: what will it be sticking out past the nut 1/16+ and how wide? Never say never, but that seems like insane amounts of torque required to do that... This is just my opinion, and I'm more than happy to be wrong JB
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