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Jul 1, 2020 13:08:00 GMT -8
Post by nikeajax on Jul 1, 2020 13:08:00 GMT -8
Er-ah, hey, um, Steve'o, I saw a whole mess'a pictures of very cute young ladies, but nothing to do with scuba, did I miss sumthin'? Jaybird
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Jul 1, 2020 13:51:55 GMT -8
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Post by stevebradley on Jul 1, 2020 13:51:55 GMT -8
My fault I tried to download pictures. I don't know who they were or came from sorry.
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Jul 1, 2020 14:57:40 GMT -8
Post by SeaRat on Jul 1, 2020 14:57:40 GMT -8
My fault I tried to download pictures. I don't know who they were or came from sorry. Steve, I think you may have inadventently gotten into a different Steve Bradley's Flickr site. Try setting up your own, then uploading the photo you want, and then using that to post into our site. John
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Jul 1, 2020 15:10:16 GMT -8
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Post by stevebradley on Jul 1, 2020 15:10:16 GMT -8
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Post by vance on Jul 1, 2020 15:14:27 GMT -8
I made a Titan II/Mistral can conversion which utilized the Titan IIs tab cutout. Ok, I am intrigued. What tool(s) / method did you use to cut out the metal can with the tab? Oh, Mark, you've opened the ugly box. I am not a pro machinist, and there are probably ways to do what I do much more easily. I usually do things the old fashioned way! This was accomplished by drilling holes inside the diameter mark, then cutting and filing with tiny files. (Check your email to see how I made your Trieste lever.) The tab is left on the material, and filed to shape. Herman (a real machinist) would do it differently, but I don't have the equipment.
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Jul 1, 2020 15:57:00 GMT -8
Post by nikeajax on Jul 1, 2020 15:57:00 GMT -8
Oy, Steve'o! Grab the "BBCode" lad! JB
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Jul 1, 2020 16:00:00 GMT -8
Post by nikeajax on Jul 1, 2020 16:00:00 GMT -8
... I am not a pro machinist, and there are probably ways to do what I do much more easily. I usually do things the old fashioned way! Just keep rockin' as ya are buuuddy-- 6000% AWSOME in my book!JB
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Jul 1, 2020 16:10:43 GMT -8
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Post by stevebradley on Jul 1, 2020 16:10:43 GMT -8
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Jul 1, 2020 18:14:18 GMT -8
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Post by scubalawyer on Jul 1, 2020 18:14:18 GMT -8
Ok, I am intrigued. What tool(s) / method did you use to cut out the metal can with the tab? Oh, Mark, you've opened the ugly box. I am not a pro machinist, and there are probably ways to do what I do much more easily. I usually do things the old fashioned way! This was accomplished by drilling holes inside the diameter mark, then cutting and filing with tiny files. (Check your email to see how I made your Trieste lever.) The tab is left on the material, and filed to shape. Herman (a real machinist) would do it differently, but I don't have the equipment. Old fashioned is great! I usually pound big rocks together to make little rocks. It is amazing what I can use my wife's Dremel to accomplish (long story). I would also love to hear how Herman would do it. The man severely impresses me with his abilities.
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Jul 1, 2020 20:23:41 GMT -8
Post by crabbyjim on Jul 1, 2020 20:23:41 GMT -8
Hi Steve,
Now that you know that you have a Trieste in FX/50 Fathom can, what do you intend to do with it? I have a Trieste in the FX cans for the Trieste and it is a wonderful regulator. Is your ultimate goal to use the cans that you have? I have a spare set of Trieste cans if you want to make a Trieste out of what you have.
"Don't worry, be Crabby" Jim
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Jul 2, 2020 7:49:50 GMT -8
Post by herman on Jul 2, 2020 7:49:50 GMT -8
Ok, you have a Trieste in Rob's Faux 50 fathom cans, def a custom reg. The only option is to tighten the ring and make sure the rubber gasket in installed. To properly tighten the ring, you really need the proper tool. Without looking, I suspect you could CAREFULLY drill a small hole through the cans and into the body like was done in the 50 Fathoms/Mistrals, then install a small pin. It MUST be either brass or stainless steel. I need to look into doing that to my Pegasus and Deringer (similar custom regs). It would need to be under the ring.
As for how I would do the cans, I would clamp them to my rotorary table which is on my mill and use a small endmill cut the metal out, leaving a small tab that I would finish off by hand. That is how those FX cans are done...I know, I did them for Rob.
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Post by vance on Jul 2, 2020 8:13:04 GMT -8
A pin would be a good idea, and quite difficult to accomplish, given the very limited amount of meat to work with. I'd be concerned about getting a good seal with a hole in that USD body gasket. It'd have to be a small pin.....
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Jul 2, 2020 8:33:00 GMT -8
Post by herman on Jul 2, 2020 8:33:00 GMT -8
Thinking about it for a minute, you are right, there is very little room around that gasket to work with.
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Jul 2, 2020 8:38:53 GMT -8
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Post by stevebradley on Jul 2, 2020 8:38:53 GMT -8
I made a new gasket out of a inner tube And made a spanner wrench. Seems to be holding really good. Is there any advice on setting the demand lever. Thanks
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Jul 2, 2020 8:59:11 GMT -8
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Post by scubalawyer on Jul 2, 2020 8:59:11 GMT -8
I made a new gasket out of a inner tube And made a spanner wrench. Seems to be holding really good. Is there any advice on setting the demand lever. Thanks It takes some time but I found that if you set IP between 140 and 150 psi on the Trieste and then back the 2nd stage body out 1.5 turns and adjust the poppet tension at that point it gives around 1" to 1.5" H2O cracking pressure. Of course spring tension in both 1st and 2nd stages are all over the board so YMMV. Also, I leave about 1/16" play in the pressurized lever My 2psi.
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