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Post by di0s on Mar 28, 2006 0:59:01 GMT -8
Hi all,
the overpressure valve of my Snark III silver is corroded pretty much, although it still works, I guess I will have to exchange this in the future. Does anyone have experience in replacing this part?
Thanks,
di0s
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Post by pescador775 on Mar 29, 2006 8:03:00 GMT -8
If I recall correctly, it is just a ball and seat backed by a spring. Just unscrew the cap and remove the parts. No crescent wrench allowed. Wait, I seem to remember a screw slot. A gunsmith screwdriver is the right one to use. These have flat blades, Euro style.
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Post by duckbill on Mar 29, 2006 9:30:54 GMT -8
Would a vinegar soak do the trick?
You might want to disassemble it and try it. If it won't disassemble easily, a preliminary soak may help loosen things up enough to get them apart for a more thorough cleaning. Does anyone see any harm in this?
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Post by pescador775 on Mar 30, 2006 7:40:19 GMT -8
I see no harm in soaking the parts. I guess vinegar or CLR are OK. I soak some corroded parts in ortho-phosphoric acid. This works for specific types of filters and some other small parts which may not be easy to replace. Of course, observe the usual precautions, no aluminum or chrome. For loosening a frozen cap, I would inject penetrating oil into the vent on top of the cap. Use a hypo if necessary. However, some disassembly will be required to prevent oil from entering the venturi or high pressure block.
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bsea
Regular Diver
Posts: 42
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Post by bsea on Apr 5, 2006 19:16:57 GMT -8
I have a Snark III Super, and my over pressure valve leaked no matter how much I backed off the Intermediate presure or tightened the screw on the overpressure valve. I just plugged it with a port plug & small o-ring. My next project is to have an adapter made so I can attach an octo to this port.
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Post by duckbill on Apr 6, 2006 2:13:01 GMT -8
I have a Snark III Super, and my over pressure valve leaked no matter how much I backed off the Intermediate presure or tightened the screw on the overpressure valve. I just plugged it with a port plug & small o-ring. My next project is to have an adapter made so I can attach an octo to this port. How do I say this lightly? BAD, BAD, BAD idea!!!!!!!!!!!! The demand stage seat (second stage) of this model is an upstream type. This means that if there is any leakage past the first stage seat you will end up will full cylinder pressure in an area designed for intermediate pressure UNLESS you have a pressure-relief valve in place as designed. There is definitely a reason why the over-pressure valve is part of the design. It's your call, but don't be surprised if your regulator body blows up on you if you plug that port! I would try disassembling the valve and trying to clean it to make it functional. Otherwise, a downstream type second stage octopus could be safely used in lieu of the over-pressure valve as long as it is adjusted properly. |
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Post by pescador775 on Apr 6, 2006 12:42:11 GMT -8
I concur with duckb.
You might be able to smooth the seat by wrapping fine crocus cloth around a pencil and gently rotating into the seat.
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 6, 2006 14:40:17 GMT -8
Duckbill said it all, don't leave the regulator plugged like this, bsea. The design is to have an overpressure relief valve, and it is absolutely necessary for the safety of the regulator. I liked Duckbill's other idea, that of putting a downstream second stage on it. That would also function as an overpressure relief valve, and be functional too. Take Duckbill's advice, and make sure the two are tuned correctly and compatible. You'll also probably need a metric conversion plug to mate most second stages to the regulator (unless you happen to have another Nemrod single hose regulator with a downstream second stage). But, again, don't leave it plugged--take the plug off and make it inoperable if necessary, but don't plug the overpressure relief valve. Also, try pescador775's idea with the pencil and fine crocus cloth to polish the seat. This will probably work too.
John
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bsea
Regular Diver
Posts: 42
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Post by bsea on Apr 6, 2006 21:06:11 GMT -8
I figured I would find out if this was a good or bad idea by posting this. DuckBill, your idea of a downsteam 2nd stage is what I have in mind. That's what I meant when I said I would need an adapter. But I didn't understand the reason for the overpressure relief valve in the 1st place. Thanks for the info. The port plug is no longer on the reg.
Back to my problem. I've soaked the valve in the cleaning solution I got from vintage double hose. After that is when I got the leak. The ball is pushed against the seat (which appears to be rubber), and that's where it's leaking. I'll try the crocus cloth & pencil, but I didn't think that would work well on rubber. It also could be the spring may not be as strong as it once was.
Any ideas where I might find a conversion plug to attach a single hose 2nd stage?
Thanks guys for all the feedback. This forum & the one on Vintage Double Hose have been a real wealth of knowlege for me.
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Post by duckbill on Apr 6, 2006 21:35:13 GMT -8
Rubber is mentioned as being somewhat Verboten in Bryans' Regulator Cleaner instructions: _____________________________________________ Regulator Cleaner:
This stuff is bio-degradable and has no odor
Easy to mix and store.
Effective on even the toughest salt and verdigris.
A couple of words of CAUTION
DO NOT use it on your painted labels……It will fade them.
DO NOT leave rubber parts in to soak for more than 10 minutes.
Instructions:
Mix it 64 parts water to 1 part cleaner…….I use it 2oz per gallon and simply put the parts in to soak for a few hours.
For parts that are very heavily crusted with verdigris I take a cotton swab and apply it full strength directly to that area only and allow it to set for an hour.
Repeat if necessary.
When you are finished rinse all parts very thoroughly in cold water.
I usually follow up by giving everything a scrub with a little Simple Green and a soft nylon brush and rinse again.
If I have serviced your regulator you have most likely seen a picture on your CD of your regulator parts soaking in this solution.
8oz of concentrate will make 4 gallons at 64-1 ratio. _____________________________________________ I assume you discovered the rubber part posthumous  It will be nice once you get an alternate second stage hooked up and useable. Best wishes on your project. Ain't it fun?! |
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 6, 2006 22:40:41 GMT -8
The reason for the overpressure relief valve is that this is an upstream seat for the second stage. That means that the seat is on the upstream side, and that a pin is used to push it up against the interstage pressure. The interstage pressure pushes against it, and seats it without the need for a heavy spring. You can see it easily by taking off the L.P. Chamber Plug. The L.P. washer, L.P. valve spring, and L.P. valve are all sitting right below this plug (it's the other one on the back of the regulator). The intermediate pressure air tends to push the valve further against the seat. There is no way for the air to get past this valve unless you breathe (which upsets the seat). If there were to be a HP leak, then the full tank pressure would push this L.P. valve against the seat, and damage the valve. It could also cause an rupture of the seat, and damage the insides of the regulator. The overpressure relief valve provides a safe way to bleed off air that could leak past the HP stage. Without this feature, the regulator would be dangerous to use. A HP leak could cause the regulator to breathe extremely hard, and damage internal components. It could be that your overpressure relief valve is leaking because it is functioning correctly, but you have a HP first nstage leak. If you have not considered this, you should. If there is a HP leak, no amount of work you do on the overpressure relief valve will do any good, as it will function as it is designed to, and vent the excess air.
John
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Post by duckbill on Apr 6, 2006 23:57:33 GMT -8
It could be that your overpressure relief valve is leaking because it is functioning correctly, but you have a HP first stage leak. If you have not considered this, you should. If there is a HP leak, no amount of work you do on the overpressure relief valve will do any good, as it will function as it is designed to, and vent the excess air. John That's true. In other words, maybe the over-pressure valve wasn't working BEFORE you cleaned it, di0s! Even if you back the first stage adjustment all the way out, a nick in the seat (either part, hard or soft seat)would still cause it to leak. |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2006 6:18:02 GMT -8
diOs Get yourself a good strong magnafying glass or jewelers or gunsmiths magnafying goggles to examine your seat/cone structures..........after using the crocus cloth, a Q-tip with jewelers polishing compound would be a good way to eliminate any scratches, cuts etc.  |
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bsea
Regular Diver
Posts: 42
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Post by bsea on Apr 7, 2006 7:30:42 GMT -8
The rubber piece is in the body of the regulator, and I was careful not to soak that part. The previous owner took care of all the paint on the label, so no problem there. I soaked the ball spring & small housing with the internal adjustment nut on the overpressure relief because it was pretty corroded.
My next step is to try & get an adapter so I can attach a single hose 2nd stage. Then I can see if I actually have a HP leak. (Thanks for another good tip)
In the meantime I'll try & get the overpressure valve working. I have a DA I'll use this season or until I get this thing working again.
Thanks for all the help!
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Post by duckbill on Apr 7, 2006 8:38:58 GMT -8
If you leave the over-pressure valve out, back the 1st stage adjusting screw all the way out (leaving the spring retainer in place to hold the diaphragm), and you still get a leak of air coming through the over-presure port when pressurized, that would probably indicate either a bad 1st stage seat or a stiff 1st stage diaphragm.
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