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Post by SeaRat on Aug 22, 2019 14:58:01 GMT -8
Shims under the spring might be the way. I wonder if an HP diaphragm adjuster from a later model will fit and work in these older ones? I don't have one to look at, so I can't say offhand. BTW, making an adapter for the IP gauge would be pretty easy on these. Does anyone have pictures of the newer HP diaphragm hardware? I tried shims, but it seemed too much (too thick). Mine is working pretty well now, and I test-breathed it last night. Here it is in the pool. John diving Dacor R-3 by John Ratliff, on Flickr Note the USD hose on the inhalation to the Dacor mouthpiece, and a SCBA hose on the exhalation side. Dacor Double Hose Regulators by John Ratliff, on Flickr Dacor R-2 (center), R-3 Dial-a-Breath (right), and R-4 (right). IMG_0604 by John Ratliff, on Flickr I will try to find photos of the diaphragm plus first stage on my Photobucket account. John
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Post by vance on Aug 22, 2019 15:44:32 GMT -8
A Dacor IP adapter for R1-2-3s. I'm going to see about making IP adjustments on these by shimming or by modding the later type adjuster to use with the older models. This tool isn't needed in every toolbox I don't suppose.... But maybe being able to adjust the IP on these will help with performance.
I'd really like to see a picture of the newer IP adjuster parts. It seems like it should work on the older ones? Or the old type can be modded to give a bit of adjustment?
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Post by vance on Aug 22, 2019 16:30:54 GMT -8
As of today, I have 3 Dacors as well. A very nice R-2, a decent R-3, and an experimental C-3. The C-3 is the one with ports drilled willy-nilly in the first stage body: This picture shows the drilled out first stage on the C-2 it came on. I replaced it with a good C-2 body, and made a super nice C-2 which I sold. I kept the drilled one for experimenting with. The C-3 it's on is decent, but not in great cosmetic shape.. I salvaged 2 working ports out of the 5 attempts. These were not my f'ups, however. I filled the botched ones with JBWeld. The 2 ok ones do work, but could've been done better. As is, when an adapter is in place, the yoke won't turn all the way. Much fun to be had modding this one! The R-3: I took some parts out of the R-2 to complete this one. It is working great! The R-2: I'm still missing a main diaphragm and some minor but difficult to find parts. I need an HP spring, 6 long can screws and nuts, 3 can to body screws, and an LP seat/lever shaft.
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Post by vance on Aug 23, 2019 13:58:32 GMT -8
I guess I'll have to take the C-3 apart to look at the adjuster. If it seems like it's possible, I'll try it in my R-2 with the IP gauge and see about getting some adjustment. Or, if it isn't possible, make a part that will work.
EDIT: Did it. It works. Here's the R-2 with a modded HP diaphragm (an extra not so good one I had) using the C-3's IP adjuster/pin interface. The hole in the center of the old style HP diaphragm needs to be drilled out to fit. It adjusts fine! So, it's pretty easily done. It wouldn't be hard to make the adjuster, which I'll probably do sooner or later. I'd make it slightly different, due to the large pin diameter on the old ones. BTW, the IP adapter works excellent. Shims would work, but they would have to be very thin. And it would be a very labor intensive job which would require disassembly-reassembly-test, disassembly-reassembly-test. etc. until correct. The adjuster screw is the most sensible mod.
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Post by vance on Aug 23, 2019 15:44:18 GMT -8
It appears that the HP spring is the same on the C-3 and the R-2/3. If not exact, it still works correctly. So any Dacor DH HP spring should work in any model. I still need one.....
Now I have 40 stainless 1 x 1/16" cotter pins, but only need 1 or 2. Anybody need some?
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Post by vance on Aug 25, 2019 12:47:27 GMT -8
Another problem with these old style Dacors is the LP seat. They are difficult to get a seal esp. since we're dealing with 60 year old rubber. I tried trimming one and cleaning up the surface for a new contact point, and it worked. But another one didn't work. That one was probably too hard, so no go. But then I remembered the miracle superglue I bought from the o-ring store!
I tried gluing a new seat onto the old, and it stuck like nobody's bidniss. I filed the old seat down to the metal and glued to the resulting flat spot. Then, I thought that it might be worth a try to leave the old seat protruding and gluing to that so's to make the spring press the lever a bit tighter. As soon as my parts come, I'll try them both out.
I've got some old levers that have been bent in various interesting ways, and I'm interested to see if these help any.
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Post by nikeajax on Aug 25, 2019 14:08:25 GMT -8
Phil, I think I have a spring for you, as well as an HP-diaphragm: I will bring them to you on the 7th JB EDIT: I bring all the extra parts I've got...
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Post by vance on Aug 25, 2019 15:04:05 GMT -8
Cool. If you have the adjustable HP diaphragm parts that'd be kew, too. I'm determined to make a good breathing R-3 somehow. If the IP can be adjusted, and the levers bent in some magical way, and an air director could be devised, this cool regulator might be a winner!
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Post by vance on Aug 25, 2019 15:09:31 GMT -8
This reminds me: I can bring stuff that might benefit anyone who comes to the meet. Let me know what you need, and I'll bring what I've got. I'm not like Charlie, who has the hardware drawers of miracles and wonders, but I got stuff. Maybe I have something you need?
I'm going to put a post on the Monterey Get-Together site with this notion.
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Post by tomcatpc on Apr 13, 2022 14:56:11 GMT -8
How can I tell the difference between an R-2, R-3, R-4 apart externally? I ordered a Dacor Double Hose reg off of a used scuba gear site without hoses, just for another project and dip my toes into the Dacor Double Hose world. I'm 99% the reg I got has the Dial-A-Breath feature, but they were vague about the reg and just called it "Dacor". The more I try to figure out the differences, the more confused I get.
I know it is not a "C-2, 3" etc Clipper series... Mark
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 13, 2022 15:04:13 GMT -8
Mark, do you remember if the chrome was glossy or brushed? Early R-4 had brushed, as with the 2500 series, so it’s not the best indicator. My best guess is that an R-3 is headed your way.
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Post by tomcatpc on Apr 13, 2022 15:07:12 GMT -8
It looks like more of a brushed finish. Mark
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 13, 2022 15:19:15 GMT -8
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 13, 2022 15:29:09 GMT -8
Do you have a link to the site we can look at?
JB
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Post by vance on Apr 13, 2022 16:01:10 GMT -8
The label will tell you if it's an R-4, C-2 or 3, C-3N. The early ones: R-1,2,3 don't have a model # on the label, but have different labels or serial # ranges.
If it has a center exhaust horn ring, it's an R-4, C3N, or one of the R-1,2,3 series. If it's one of the R-1,2,3s, the position of the second stage is a clue.
DABs were R-3s, C-2s, R-4s, and maybe early C-3s (don't remember).
When you get the regulator, post photos. We can ID it for you.
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