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Post by spirou on May 18, 2024 13:11:28 GMT -8
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Post by nikeajax on May 18, 2024 13:41:47 GMT -8
Just making sure, trying to be helpful JB
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Post by spirou on May 18, 2024 14:58:31 GMT -8
Just making sure, trying to be helpful JB Thanks a lot 🙏 JB I almost try to separate the nozzle, of a R4 body , three years ago, but I found the maintenance manual before, and the advice, And before beginning the work on the R2 . I read as much as possible threads on R series on the board. It is very important to post information for others members. I see your picture In another thread, you haven't be warned 😔, and you destroy the body😞 of your R series. Fred
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Post by nikeajax on May 18, 2024 15:48:09 GMT -8
Mon Ami, if push ever comes to shove (you get desperate and need to) use two steel bolts in the main-body and lock those in a vice, to hold things securely, then you can use a large wrench on the valve-body. The thing is to get enough torque on removing it, but, especially re-tightening with that coper-bushing/washer: salt water can get in there and seize the two pieces together to where you can't find a big enough wrench or strong enough bolts--GRRRRRR! JB
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Post by SeaRat on May 18, 2024 22:44:17 GMT -8
Mon Ami, if push ever comes to shove (you get desperate and need to) use two steel bolts in the main-body and lock those in a vice, to hold things securely, then you can use a large wrench on the valve-body. The thing is to get enough torque on removing it, but, especially re-tightening with that coper-bushing/washer: salt water can get in there and seize the two pieces together to where you can't find a big enough wrench or strong enough bolts--GRRRRRR! JB JB I don’t think two stainless steel bolts inserted into the main body are enough to not damage the main brass body with a large wrench on the HP valve body. I think Dacor had a special plate that used all five screws to hold the body in a vice. (I think it’s five bolts, but it may be 6; I need to go back to the diagram and count.). Anyway, it’s not the HP valve body, but rather the screws holding the HP diaphragm down that are probably causing the leak. Simply tighten those bolts, and the leak should go away. John
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Post by spirou on May 19, 2024 2:13:09 GMT -8
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Post by herman on May 19, 2024 2:53:29 GMT -8
A word of caution, the service manual instruction shown above is from a different manual (or are wrong) than the parts diagram shown earlier. The instruction above (highlighted in pink above) references parts 18 (main body) and 27 (valve body) HOWEVER in the earlier parts diagram 18 is the yoke and 27 is an oring. The parts the instruction is referring to are parts 16 (main body) and 25 (valve body) in the diagrams. Don't go by the numbers, go by the NAMES, otherwise you are dealing with the wrong parts.
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Post by spirou on May 19, 2024 4:45:03 GMT -8
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cg43
Pro Diver
Posts: 117
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Post by cg43 on May 19, 2024 5:01:57 GMT -8
Hello Fred
Like you , I guess the leak is between the IP nozzel and the main body . If the HP diaphragm and surface of the main body are in excellent condition thighten the srews may do the job . I would't trust on this . Sealing cylindrical threads with teflon many times causes problems especialy if the teflon can move on the thread . In this case the rubber on the top allows this movement . You can try a liquid thread gasket , a removabel threadlocker or a fibre like hemp that is used in plumbing .
Greetings Rainer
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Post by spirou on May 19, 2024 6:57:56 GMT -8
Hello Fred Like you , I guess the leak is between the IP nozzel and the main body . If the HP diaphragm and surface of the main body are in excellent condition thighten the srews may do the job . I would't trust on this . Sealing cylindrical threads with teflon many times causes problems especialy if the teflon can move on the thread . In this case the rubber on the top allows this movement . You can try a liquid thread gasket , a removabel threadlocker or a fibre like hemp that is used in plumbing . Greetings Rainer Hello Rainer I used normal Teflon band, but I think the problem is also, that I place nozzle at the end , all others screw are already thighten. So when I insert the nozzle, first it must go through the diaphragm, and a part of the Teflon is already removed by the diaphragm, before to be in threads of the body. I hooked many times and test the regulator before the div, on the bench, and just before the dive a little leak appears 🙄😤. I must proceed and find the way for the assembly. By the way, the IP was too high, I put a washer before the filter, in the entry of the first stage ( early filter are thicker than today) I also place a spacer, between the box and the lever plate. These two things , washer and space, allows an IP of 9 bar. I enjoyed to work on this regulator, it is juste a bit difficult to assemble all there layer together. To be continued... Respectfully Fred
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Post by nikeajax on May 19, 2024 8:53:58 GMT -8
John, I've used the two-bolt method with very good success, when I needed to: the trick is to keep it well stabilized, and that trick will do it. What I've found, and I think Phil has had the same problem as well, is salt water getting into the threads, it works as good as red lock tight to where even adding a torch to it wouldn't budge the flippin' thing-- GRRRRR! This is the same thing with the Divair valve bodies, just leave 'em in. JB
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Post by SeaRat on May 19, 2024 13:09:29 GMT -8
Fred,
Here’s a thought. First, I’ve never used Teflon tape on the nozzzle. The threads are not the sealing point. If they were, it would be a tapered thread, like on the 1/2 inch tank valves. The sealing point is the contact of the end of the nozzle with the main body. Take a look inside, and see whether there is any scratches or corrosion in the surface where the nozzle contacts the body. If there are, they must be removed to cause a metal-on-metal sealing surface.
The other thing is the order of placing the hozzle and screws. Place the nozzzle in first, and screw it down tight. Then start near the nozzle, and place the five screws (I counted). Why could this work? Well, if you place the screws in first, as indicated above, the metal plate (pressure regulator spring retainer, #18). This forms a plate that is under the screws can be forced up where the nozzle resides. This may me preventing the nozzle from fully sealing with the metal body because of the stress causing a slight bend in the plate applying upward pressure on the nozzle as you try to tighten it. So think about that aspect too.
John
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