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Post by Deleted on Mar 27, 2021 14:52:56 GMT -8
Well I came across an old Dacor, and I figured Phil’s R-4 needed a buddy. I didn’t do much research but I’m thinking this one I got is an R-3? If anyone knows the model and approximate year it was made, it would be great to know. I didn’t expect much would function on this one, as it had not been tested nor serviced. So far all I can tell is that it does not exhale at all. I am very much a novice to regulators in general, and perhaps I have no business touching anything internally, but are there any basic first steps I should take? Thanks, Stephan Edit: hopefully this thread will be helpful to someone brand new to double hose/Dacor regs! Attachments:
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Post by herman on Mar 27, 2021 15:13:41 GMT -8
Look at the diaphragms. If they are toast then you are pretty much done, replacements are hard to come by. I have seen them from OK to crunchy but rarely good enough (IMO) to dive.
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Post by SeaRat on Mar 27, 2021 16:20:21 GMT -8
Stephan,
If it has a knob in back, saying "Hard-->Easy" it's an R-3 Dial-A-Breath. If it does not, it's probably a R-2.
Concerning the not exhaling, it could be only a stuck mushroom valve on the outer diaphragm. Squirt some silicone spray into the regulator from those outside holes, and lit it sit for a few days. Then you may want to take a screwdriver and pliers and unscrew the six screws, and take the top box off to separate the diaphragms from the regulator, and you can see inside too. Being very careful, separate the first (primary) diaphragm form the metal ring spacer, and once out, spray it down with silicone. Then do the same with the second diaphragm. If it's still flexible after spraying silicon and letting it sit for a while, you can look at the mushroom valve and see its condition. If it is flexible, but merely stuck, you can carefully separate the rubber mushroom valve with a sharp knife, and hopefully it will still be functional. Do not take this mushroom valve off the diaphragm, as it may break, and currently there are no replacements.
John
PS, I have a number of these regulators, and have not found one yet that's "crunchy." These are rather tough, thick diaphragms. For the R-4, with the low modulus diaphragm, it's a different story, and some of those deteriorate badly over time.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 27, 2021 17:54:17 GMT -8
Yep definitely the R-3 dial a breath. Thanks for the info John, I had unfortunately taken off the cover and exhaust diaphragm assembly before having seen your reply. I had peeled the valve away from being stuck and hopefully didn’t cause damage, although nothing appeared to break. How would you recommend I proceed from here, still proceed with the silicon spray and separating the primary? I’m guessing based on the condition so far it will be quite a project (and maybe one I should leave to someone experienced and skilled with these)? thanks Stephan
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Post by nikeajax on Mar 27, 2021 18:01:24 GMT -8
Stephan, grease those diaphragms up with sillykone and let them sit for a few weeks inside a plastic then look for a replacement exhaust diaphragm, you should be OK JB
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Post by Deleted on Mar 27, 2021 18:17:44 GMT -8
Thanks JB. Will do, after taking them off the metal? Also, is finding an exhaust going to be pretty tough?
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Post by SeaRat on Mar 27, 2021 22:02:24 GMT -8
Yes, take the diaphragms out, as they actually look pretty good. Don't remove the exhaust mushroom. Put silicone grease, or spray, onto it like Jaybird said, and let it sit in the plastic bag for a week. I don't think you'll actually loose that mushroom. If it bent like you show, and didn't break, what you have on it is a coating, not permanent damage. I have 50+ year old mushrooms on my R-2 and R-3 that are still viable.
John
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2021 8:46:41 GMT -8
That’s great to hear, thanks! In the meantime, are there parts on here that I will almost certainly need to replace? (I imagine this diagram is pretty representative of r3?) Attachments:
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Post by nikeajax on Mar 28, 2021 9:28:50 GMT -8
Stephan, the only parts I can see you having any trouble with are #22 and #2: #2 can be resurfaced: I think Phil may have figured out something with #22 JB
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Post by SeaRat on Mar 28, 2021 13:02:55 GMT -8
Actually, I don’t think you’ll need to replace even #22. If the seat is scored on #22, simply flip it over.
For #2, JB’s explanation is correct, you can resurface it on a marble knife sharpening stone.
But the hoses may need replacing, as Dacor hoses don’t tend to age nicely. But looking at your photo, yours may be the exception.
John
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2021 13:17:17 GMT -8
Awesome, that’s encouraging! Yes the hoses and mouthpiece seem to be surprisingly decent and certainly good display, although if I’m ever able to use this diving, I have a set of extra hoses from Phil and a voit repro mouthpiece setup all ready for it. 👍🏼
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2021 14:59:50 GMT -8
I’m having trouble removing #28, any suggestions to safely do this? And just to clarify on those diaphragms, are the inner circle metal components on the diaphragm assemblies the part I’m separating from the rubber diaphragms? Seems so well connected I wanted to make sure before ruining anything.
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Post by nikeajax on Mar 28, 2021 15:16:55 GMT -8
Stephan, do you mean the friction plate that is riveted to the diaphragm? If that is the case, no, do not try to separate them from the rubber portion of the diaphragm.
As for #28 (exhaust ring assy) try dipping it in hot water and very gently teasing it it away with something very soft and blunt: if you can work some silicone grease in while you're doing it, that may help too. I have found that spit/saliva is an excellent lubricant too that you can work/tease in there as well, silicone grease is too viscose sometimes.
JB
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2021 15:34:46 GMT -8
Yes JB must be the friction plate I’m referring to; didn’t seem right to be removing them from that but glad I checked! What is the spacer John is referring to separating from the diaphragms?
Thanks for the tips too, I’ll give it a try
Stephan
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Post by nikeajax on Mar 28, 2021 15:51:27 GMT -8
I do b'lieve that John was referring to the exhaust ring assembly. OK, unless you're finding it absolutely necessary, DO NOT remove #1, valve body, from #11, reduction chamber... It doesn't take much from them to become frozen together, just leave it alone When they get stuck, they can be nearly impossible to get off JB
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