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Post by nikeajax on Apr 25, 2021 15:23:36 GMT -8
The nozzle can be removed from the body with prodigious amounts of heat and torque. You need a BFT* as well as a BFW, and a hefty BFV on a bench... *BF stands for Big F***in'(add noun). As f*** is one of my fave pieces of verbiage, I think "expletive deleted" sounds just that much more official But to echo PY, please don't try to separate the valve body from the reducing chamber because... JB
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Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2021 20:57:15 GMT -8
Thanks for all the ideas and input guys. Now it’s just a waiting game to see if it shrinks back to normal, and if so, the repair attempt can begin.
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Post by vance on Apr 29, 2021 15:59:01 GMT -8
I can mod one for you. I'll need a DA poppet to cut up and silver solder to a Dacor lever, your Dacor lever, and your second stage volcano as well. I'll have to cut the volcano down so it will adjust to the USD seat holder. It'll just cost shipping.
PM me.
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Post by vance on Apr 29, 2021 16:34:33 GMT -8
No prob, Bob. Gather the parts and send them to me.
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Post by james1979 on Apr 29, 2021 16:56:33 GMT -8
If needed, I have a number of old Conshelf second stage poppets that could be cut down for that... they take the same hockey puck seat as DAAM/RAMs. Let me know if you want me to send one (or more) Phil's way for you.
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Post by vance on Apr 30, 2021 8:15:28 GMT -8
James, If you have an extra or two, I'd be happy to have them. PY
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Post by james1979 on Apr 30, 2021 11:30:37 GMT -8
I'll add them to the small pile I'm accumulating for you! But if they work for the lever mod (they should) one is earmarked for scubastefano.
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Post by vance on Apr 30, 2021 14:21:53 GMT -8
I'll add them to the small pile I'm accumulating for you! But if they work for the lever mod (they should) one is earmarked for scubastefano. I'll be sure he gets his lever mod! I am curious to see if the Conshelf poppet will work better for my TitanII/Dacor/etc., second stage mods than RAM/DAAM poppets.
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Post by vance on Apr 30, 2021 14:24:57 GMT -8
I've been working on making the pivots for Dacor DH levers. The R-3 type LP seat lever has a shaft with hairpin clips at both ends. These clips are pretty much impossible to source, and cutting the retaining groove in 1/16" round stock is on the order of carving the Pieta on a grain of rice.....
OK, not that hard, but it ain't easy. So, I'm threading 1/16" stainless rod and using #0-80 nuts on both ends.
I made a couple. The stainless rod threads ok (it's a bit hard) but it's no picnic. I wouldn't want to try to do this w/o a lathe and my newly purchased lathe tailstock die and tap holder.
One problem with using nuts as retainers is fixing them to the pivot in a way that secures them but also allows them to be removed when necessary. The R-3 type levers need to be removed to set IP and to replace the LP seats, so nail polish is probably the best method for at least one side. The other nut can be loctite-ed or even soldered. A 90 degree bend on one end would also work.
The R-4 type diaphragm lever and the R-3 type diaphragm lever can be installed pretty much permanently, so blue loctite is good on both sides. Alternatively, a 1/16" stainless cotter pin can be used for all but the R-3 LP seat lever (it should have a fixed pin b/c it can't have any side to side slop).
Funny how a project like this can cost so much! My average cost for one pin is about $120! I needed the tooling anyway, and the materials cost isn't crazy high, so minus the tooling, let's call it $10 per, so far.
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Post by herman on May 1, 2021 2:33:19 GMT -8
Welcome to the world of machine work....plan on spending at at least as much on new tooling/adapters/chucks as you did on the machine.....and a lathe doesn't use much tooling- only 3-4 chucks, 4 or 5 centers, a couple collet chucks, lots of collets to go with them, a tool post and at least 10-12 different tools to go with the post and lets not forget the dozen or so styles of inserts that go with the tools...only $5-10 each in packs of 10. A mill is to completely different beast with lots more tooling, very little you can use for both. Then there is setup time, often times it takes me hours, sometimes days if I have to build a special jig to hold something, just to make a 1 minute cut. Add your time into the pin cost and it goes up a lot more. Still there is a lot of satisfaction cutting metal to within a RCH..... We used a lot of Conshelf LP seat holders in some of our original work on the HPR. They are longer and as I recall, you have to turn down the shaft as it gets thicker just below the threads.
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Post by SeaRat on May 1, 2021 7:50:03 GMT -8
I've been working on making the pivots for Dacor DH levers. The R-3 type LP seat lever has a shaft with hairpin clips at both ends. These clips are pretty much impossible to source, and cutting the retaining groove in 1/16" round stock is on the order of carving the Pieta on a grain of rice..... OK, not that hard, but it ain't easy. So, I'm threading 1/16" stainless rod and using #0-80 nuts on both ends. I made a couple. The stainless rod threads ok (it's a bit hard) but it's no picnic. I wouldn't want to try to do this w/o a lathe and my newly purchased lathe tailstock die and tap holder. One problem with using nuts as retainers is fixing them to the pivot in a way that secures them but also allows them to be removed when necessary. The R-3 type levers need to be removed to set IP and to replace the LP seats, so nail polish is probably the best method for at least one side. The other nut can be loctite-ed or even soldered. A 90 degree bend on one end would also work. The R-4 type diaphragm lever and the R-3 type diaphragm lever can be installed pretty much permanently, so blue loctite is good on both sides. Alternatively, a 1/16" stainless cotter pin can be used for all but the R-3 LP seat lever (it should have a fixed pin b/c it can't have any side to side slop). Funny how a project like this can cost so much! My average cost for one pin is about $120! I needed the tooling anyway, and the materials cost isn't crazy high, so minus the tooling, let's call it $10 per, so far. I was under the impression that the interstage pressure (IP) for the R-3 and lower regulators was not something that could be adjusted or "set." There is no provision for adjusting the IP, other than maybe using washers. I tried that, and it did not work well. John
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Post by vance on May 1, 2021 9:26:03 GMT -8
I misspoke there, and should have said "check" rather than "set". I made an adapter for my IP gauge in order to be sure IP is within reasonable range and steady.
I did an experiment some time ago by installing an adjuster from a later model in the R-3. The adjuster screw was too tall and interfered with the lever a bit, but it did work to set IP. All that would need to be done is use a shorter screw, I think.
I also tried drilling the non-adjustable R-3 "button" for a set screw adjuster, which also worked to adjust IP, but it leaked slightly. I never pursued a fix, b/c it didn't seem worth bothering with.
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Post by SeaRat on May 1, 2021 14:13:43 GMT -8
I misspoke there, and should have said "check" rather than "set". I made an adapter for my IP gauge in order to be sure IP is within reasonable range and steady. I did an experiment some time ago by installing an adjuster from a later model in the R-3. The adjuster screw was too tall and interfered with the lever a bit, but it did work to set IP. All that would need to be done is use a shorter screw, I think. I also tried drilling the non-adjustable R-3 "button" for a set screw adjuster, which also worked to adjust IP, but it leaked slightly. I never pursued a fix, b/c it didn't seem worth bothering with. I bought all the parts for an R-4 that were different from the R-3 in the 1980s, and converted a R-3 into an R-4. It worked well, until I tried to improve the lever by hammering out the “U” in the top lever so that the bottom lever (primary lever) would slide down into the fulcrum of the top lever, rather than away from it. I then had the Dacor rep take it back to Dacor, and I never saw it again. When I inquired about it, they sent my a Dacor Pacer to replace it. . I think the philosophy from Dacor at the time was that no one needed to do anything about the IP, and the R-3 could be repaired in the field with only a screwdriver and a pair of pliers. John
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Post by vance on May 2, 2021 9:01:40 GMT -8
I'll add them to the small pile I'm accumulating for you! But if they work for the lever mod (they should) one is earmarked for scubastefano. Is the Conshelf poppet like the one on the right in the photo? I'm not sure what this one is, but it could be a Conshelf part.
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Post by nikeajax on May 2, 2021 9:25:10 GMT -8
PY, I may be wrong but the one on the left looks like a USD from the mid-1960's to early '70's. They really make me appreciate the HW's with their square shank that keeps them from turning...
JB
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