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Post by james1979 on May 12, 2021 7:03:38 GMT -8
I have been falling behind on all fronts, but I'll get a small package out to Phil today that will include the Conshelf poppets for modding the Dacor lever for Stephan. I really need to catch up... too damn many projects.
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Post by vance on May 12, 2021 9:04:19 GMT -8
I really need to catch up... too damn many projects. Me, too brother! My desktop is scattered with things needing attention!
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Post by vance on May 12, 2021 13:39:42 GMT -8
Here's the new PITA pivot I made for an R-3. Needs nail polish to keep the nuts on, but works better than a cotter pin.
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Post by vance on May 14, 2021 9:40:58 GMT -8
My idea doesn't work. It still leaks past the set screw threads. The way Dacor did it is to seal the threaded adjuster screw near the bottom with an o'ring. Here's the 2500 assembly, which has just a flat contact point for the HP pin. And here's the modded one. It needs some sort of seal around the setscrew, and I think the bottom of the bolt needs to be relieved a bit to lower the IP to a suitably low starting point. The HP pin isn't a simple pin, it's a square gizmo that touches the bottom of the bolt, and the relief would need to accommodate the pin's square head. I'm not sure it's worth the effort to make a new one. I'd just install a later Dacor assembly in the R-3.
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Post by herman on May 16, 2021 3:24:11 GMT -8
Why not just reproduce the original design? Countersink the one you modified to accept an adjustment screw like the original, making a new OEM style adjustment screw would not be a big deal. I would think brass would work fine, SS would be a better choice but is a bit more difficult to work with. If you need more adjustment space, either countersink the face of the larger hex "screw" or trim off a little of the square pin. I would expect .010-.020 would be plenty. An alternative would be to use a thinner washer on the top (the one that acts as a spring pad).
A second thought, instead of making a solid adjustment screw like the OEM design, how about a simple brass plunger with an oring seal, the screw could be a standard SS screw. I see no reason it has to be a one piece design. The oring would keep the plunger in during assembly
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Post by vance on May 16, 2021 15:58:48 GMT -8
All good suggestions, thanks! I especially like the two piece adjuster screw.
Yesterday, after saying I wasn't going to do it, I made a new 6x32 tpi setscrew with a smooth section with a tiny o'ring around it much like the oem adjuster. On the bolt, I threaded the top 1/3 6x32 tpi and drilled a slightly larger smooth bore at the bottom 2/3.
I haven't checked it yet. Like Herman suggested above, I can probably shorten the pin a smidge to lower the IP to a better starting point than the original's 150 psi.
EDIT: It's 2 weeks later and it's still sitting on my desk. Had to get the tomatoes planted... You have no idea what that took.
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Post by nikeajax on Jun 6, 2021 11:52:27 GMT -8
Hmmmmm? How do we realllllly know it's you, huh? For all we know that's just a mannequin, or, or maybe some wino you picked up in the woods Now that I'm thinking about it, I'll bet that's "Ottis the drunk" Very fun, was it as good as you had anticipated, I hope? JB
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Post by herman on Jun 7, 2021 2:12:03 GMT -8
Anyone else notice the dragonfly setting on the top of the left tank in the second photo?
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Post by nikeajax on Jun 7, 2021 7:40:47 GMT -8
Anyone else notice the dragonfly setting on the top of the left tank in the second photo? I sure did But because of the wings, and size, I think it may be a Damselfly though: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DamselflyThe wings on a Damselfly can fold back parallel to the body, whereas a Dragonfly's wings are always straight out away from the body in opposition to it Yeah, I know, not that important, but just a fun factoid... JB
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Post by SeaRat on Jun 7, 2021 8:18:58 GMT -8
Anyone else notice the dragonfly setting on the top of the left tank in the second photo? I sure did But because of the wings, and size, I think it may be a Damselfly though: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DamselflyThe wings on a Damselfly can fold back parallel to the body, whereas a Dragonfly's wings are always straight out away from the body in opposition to it Yeah, I know, not that important, but just a fun factoid... JB emphasis added, jcr Here's my dragonfly photo: _MG_8490 by John Ratliff, on Flickr When I took this series of photos, at first I didn't even see the lower dragonfly. Then I saw it, and re-oriented the camera to get this photo, portrait style. John
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Post by nikeajax on Jun 9, 2021 11:06:25 GMT -8
For the R-3 project, there is pretty loud squeaky, wheezing noise coming from the regulator when inhaling. What would be causing this? Stephan, I believe it's in the first stage: some kind of harmonic is being created. Their Dart series does this too, they squeal like a stuck pig: kind of a squealing/reverberation which makes me think it has something to do with the spring?!?!?!?!? It's annoying as (expletive deleted) whatever it is Perhaps Emmett Kelly thought it would be fun and wacky to scare fish with JB
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Post by nikeajax on Jun 9, 2021 11:26:30 GMT -8
It may be the air rushing over the valve-block and being amplified by the spring...
JB
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Post by SeaRat on Jun 9, 2021 18:10:32 GMT -8
Try moving the {Dial-a-Breath) vane and see if that has anz effect. It is sitting right in the air flow to the hose.
John
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Post by nikeajax on Jun 15, 2021 10:50:09 GMT -8
Stephan, I'm wondering if you could use something like blue Loctite to seal up the threads? According to "Basic Scuba", there should be now washer: please remove the washer as that may be causing your leak PY, what say you about using a thread sealer for this application? JB
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Post by nikeajax on Jun 15, 2021 12:30:42 GMT -8
Hmmmmm? I'm wondering what would happen if you moved your HP-diaphragm over one hole? Could it be that the hole got wobbled out, is too large now to hold the pressure? Just thinkin' out loud here JB EDIT: Yours would be the one on the left...
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